Відео

I can see your concern, as the tip of the drop indicator that's touching the bed is hardened steel, but it's basically a ball bearing, not a sharp point. The drop indicator is not applying much pressure at all, it would take much more pressure or a sharper point to scratch the glass. To add, some small scratches that could be produced (IF it was scratching it) by the indicator traveling over the surface would actually improve adhesion, as it's roughing up the surface slightly, adding more surface area

Yeh the tip is also ball shaped which helps, what is interesting is the oscillations as it pendulums back and forth during both the X movements and the Y push but not the drag, where its perfectly smooth. All makes sence when you think about it

Its a 775 10,000 rmp 120W 12 to 36V motor as found on Aliexpress, the standard motor you get with the CNC3018, you can find the software which is now much improved at www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3777429-Conversational-Programming-CAD-Free-CNC

Originally I had a 3036 1400kv motor 9x4.5 prop with 2200 3s which went vertical without any problem. later I had 1100kv motor with 10x6 or 11x5.5 prop and 1800 3s any setup with about 300W is more than enough, 9g servos all round

@@simonjcastle1 many thanks to you 🥰

@@maxnuhn6932 Forgot to say I only used a 30A ESC, the CG is on the white/red border at the wing root

i see what you did there

Thank you for the comment, if you are putting it in a small model then you can probably use one of the smaller Arduinos like the beetle and drop the amp and use one of the small speaker that you get in birthday cards etc

No, Sorry it was from Hobbyking

Shut idiot

Yes you can

@@simonjcastle1 so thats means the cdi ditected the magnet and send signal to chip..then the chip send output power??

I gave the code to one of the other commenters, he uploaded it to githuib, if you cant find it can also post it, let me know, I may be able to do it this week

It was a way of adjusting the climb rate with out the unit moving up or down, for testing. specifically its the delta added to the current pressure offset each time round the loop. The real pressure is read and then an offset is added which is updated by the delta +/- each time round see the links A simple point here is that with a constant height you are actually slightly climbing as even the best glider will loose height without lift

In principle yes but the resolution is not so high. You may find code for the bmp180 and 280 somewhere in the thread

Checkout the link to rcgroups, for full details, if you need more help just ask. The SW and sound samples are there

PM me on RCG your email

@@simonjcastle1 please sent to my email to.. dwie.stro@gmail.com manyy thanksss

The items are from Hobbyking see other comments for a link

Yes exactly the 3rd connection is for an RPM sensor such as the one I used. You could connect it to you RX and telemetry system but you will need proper isolation, If you make your own then you need an opto isolator or a specially designed interface for your telemetry system that keeps the ignition and RX electrical systems isolated.

You do have both an RX and Ignition battery dont you ? dont be tempted to run them of the same one

Thanks! I caught on to that requirement before even hooking everything up. Was making pretty good progress today until my starter gear decided to go south... once I get it changed, I'll be back to getting everything ready to fire off again.

Simon: Thanks! I got my RPM sensor to work along with the digital tach... now I have a display on the airframe along with telemetry data!

Hi Kyle there is a 5V regulator Black top right in the film, the illuminated screen as a combined current and voltage meter, there is a link in my comment above. The idea is to show the average current which goes up with RPM as you would expect. The meter is intended to record maximum servo stall current which can be quite high, and also minimum voltage drop under such conditions.

Oh yes it should also work with all ignitions as far as I know.

The main test unit is this hobbyking.com/en_us/gas-engine-cdi-ignition-test-and-timing-setup-tool-includes-crankshaft-degree-wheel.html?___store=en_us sorry cant find the RPM sensor at HK but ant one will do. I used this simple power meter hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-compact-20a-watt-meter-and-servo-power-analyzer.html?___store=en_us Hope that help you

OK here it is hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-tachometer-for-ignition-use-30000-rpm-max.html?___store=en_us There is also a 5V regulator between the 3s Lipo and the ignition system

Simon Castle thank u so much......

Simon Castle is this connection enable NGK Cm6 spark plug???

This setup also works with a CM-6 as tested with my DLE30 and DLE55 ignition system

see this post for a picture of the receiver and follow the thread for further details www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36469241&postcount=13 Its a bit off screen but you can see half the receiver in the bottom left, the intention was only to show functionality not the build

NO you use the TOP half of the 4s socket, slice off the right tab on the plug so that the left tab locates in the left, top side of the 4s socket as stated for the 3s/6s setup

Are you alive?